Monday, February 1, 2010

Tour of Peru Days 4 & 5 - Colca Canyon


Pictures at the bottom.

We left Arequipa on Monday afternoon intending to go to Puno, next to Lake Titcaca. We enjoyed the nice scenery on other side of the mountains and volcanoes near Arequipa. As we were driving up into the Altiplano (high plains) we figured out that we would arrive to Puno too late, so we called an audible and headed towards Colca Canyon. 

Colca Canyon is arguably the deepest in the world. The road is arguably the worst in the world. I think it used to be paved but hasn't been touched for decades and is worse than if it had never been paved. On the way to the small town of Chivay, the combination of altitude and an hour of washboard roads caused all three kids to get sick. Fortunately, we had bags ready. (The rest of the trip, the kids agreed to take Dramamine if we put it in York peppermint patties.) After an hour on the horrible roads, we arrived to a newly paved road that was straight as an arrow. Then a long series of hairpins descending to Chivay.

We arrived in Chivay around 8 pm. It's a very small town with the standard plaza with the cathedral on one side, the police station on another, and hostels and bars taking up much of the rest. Our Lonely Planet guidebook served us well and we found a hostel on the plaza with 3 beds for $20 (less than what room service for your dog costs at the Chicago Trump Tower). For $20 you don't expect much, so it was great. It even had hot water after the front desk gave us a wrench to replace the missing knob.

We left the next morning, Tuesday, to drive  farther into the canyon to Cruz del Condor, a lookout where condors often are gliding nearby. The dirt road went through small villages. Men, women, and their animals were walking along the road to go to their fields. We approached a tunnel at one point and suddenly a huge tour bus with 4 x 4 wheels came barreling out. We got out of the way, but didn't feel too secure heading into the one-lane tunnel. When you don't know when the end of something is, it feels a lot longer. The tunnel felt like it was forever.

Once at Cruz del Condor, we saw a handful of condors soaring around. The view was nice. The canyon is really deep. A lot of nice women were there selling their goods. The women have intricate hats and vests, cowboy style, that are made by the men. 

After getting our fix of condors and canyon views, we headed back to Chivay. We stopped at the plaza for a bit, where the kids played with a baby alpaca. The locals love to touch Eva and Jane's hair. 

We left Chivay by the same bad road we arrived, no sickness this time. Then we caught the highway across the Altiplano up  to Puno. The scenery going to Puno was beautiful high plains through a national reserve. Many alpacas and related animals, lakes, and flamingos.  

You should be able to click on the slideshow below to go to a bigger view of the pictures.